She opened her first dress shop in Beauville in 1913. Her simple, comfortable designs were taken up quickly by rich society women, tired of the over-elaborate and restricting fashions of the day. She soon rose to be the queen of Paris haute couture and remained the most powerful figure there for six decades, at one time employing 3,500 staff. She has been credited with the "invention" in the 1920s of the suntan as a fashionable look for the idle rich (advertising their ample leisure time); previously it was the mark of the outdoor laboring classes.